An interview with Marie Calas, Head of Skin Care Development at Dr. Hauschka
As Head of Skin Care Development, you work on many different formulations. Nurturing, nourishing plant extracts are always part of these. In the case of the Eyeshadows, you have opted for black tea. Why tea?
A cooled black teabag is a tried-and-tested home remedy for tired or irritated eyes. Tea contains tannins, which, when used in a compress, are refreshing and reduce puffiness. We want our make-up to have the same effect. However, instead of placing damp tea bags on our customer’s eyes, we integrate the plant’s nurturing properties into our formulations.
How do you transform tea into Eyeshadow?
It is actually a rather complicated process. First, we create an aqueous extract made from organic tea leaves and mix it with extracts of witch hazel and anthyllis. These nurturing plant extracts are common in our skin care products, but as liquids. To integrate them into a product that comes in powder form, the essences are sprayed onto a natural mineral and air dried. This gives us a fine powder that embodies the strengths of the three plants. This process, which gives structure to a liquid, ultimately transfers the same benefits as a cup of black tea: it gives us clarity and restores order.
When is colour added to a formulation?
The powdered extracts of tea, anthyllis and witch hazel come together with other ingredients such as silk powder and silica to form the basis of all our Eyeshadows. The colours are created by various minerals, such as iron oxide or mica. These pigments range from soft notes of rose and peach through an entire palette of earthy shades, to a vibrant lilac and dark anthracite.
How do you create a new Eyeshadow?
We developers let ourselves be inspired – ideally by nature itself. We look at the world around us as well as at our inner landscapes. You could say that it is an act of creative visualisation in colourful dialogue with everyday life. We try to translate this dialogue into skin care formulations. Once we have created initial product samples, we involve other colleagues from the Marketing and Skin Care Consultation departments, as well as our International Make-up Artist, Karim Sattar. Karim tests the new Eyeshadows on various skin tones and gives us specific suggestions for the final formulation: perhaps a little more mica, maybe a little less coverage, or possibly a stronger hint of red. It is important that the new shade not only has the perfect composition but can also be perfectly combined with other Dr. Hauschka products.
This tea is not only popular as a stimulating drink, though; it is also a sought-after cosmetic ingredient.
Tea gardens cover the hillsides in southeast China like lush green carpets. Here, in Hunan Province, tea is cultivated and harvested for Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. This peninsula is home to the organic Qingshan tea farm, which is renowned for a classic black tea with a mild flavour and a reddish-brown colour in the cup. This tea is not only popular as a stimulating drink, though; it is also a sought-after cosmetic ingredient. The dried tea leaves contain caffeine and valuable tannins with soothing, decongesting and toning properties. These properties are especially beneficial for the sensitive area around the eyes, which is why extracts of black tea enrich the entire Dr. Hauschka make-up range including Mascara, Eyeliners and Eyeshadows in all shades.
Dr. Hauschka Quality
- Truly natural and organic skin care and make-up, certified to NATRUE and/or BDIH standards
- Free from chemical/synthetic fragrances, dyes and preservatives
- Free from mineral oils, parabens, silicone and PEG
- Dermatologically tested for sensitive skin
- Wherever possible, all raw materials come from controlled organic or biodynamic (Demeter certified) cultivation and are recovered under fair conditions
- We don’t test on animals, we test on happy to help out human volunteers
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